After 3
weeks in Rajasthan, we went to Agra, the Taj Mahal city. To go there, we
decided to take the train. India is well known for its good and wide railway
system… but it is really complicated ! I’ll try to explain you:
There are 5
classes in the train : the first class, with aircon, closed bed and meal
included ; the second 2 thiers with aircon and 2 beds per
« place » ; the second 3 thiers with aircon and 3 beds per
« place ; the sleeper class without aircon (just fans) and 3 beds and
the genral class : no seat numbers, no beds, no aircon !
You need to
book your ticket well in advance ! (In India, 60 millions of people travel
by train every day). But you can’t just go to the counter and say “I want a
ticket to XXXX on that date”. You have to fill a form with your personal
details and the train number, the time of the train… If you don’t know the
number of the train, then you cannot book!
And if the
train already left, you cannot book a seat. (In India, distances are so big
that some trains take more than 48 hours to get to their final destination).
The only solution in that case is to buy a general class ticket, jump in the
train, find a seat in the desired class and pay the difference between the
general class ticket and the chosen class.
When all
tickets are sold out (except for the general class, where there are as many
tickets as people buy), people are on “waiting lists”: they have to pay the
full amount of the seat but they will get a seat if someone cancels his ticket.
If not they will “borrow” a seat of another… Sometimes there are 3 people for
one bed… and sometimes some sleep on the floor!
There is no
cancellation fee, so all tourist agencies buy a lot of tickets and the day
before the train leaves, they give back all the tickets not sold. SO for every
train, the day before it departs, there is a long queue of people waiting to
buy a “last minute ticket”.
As
« tourist » we are a bit luckier: In the majority of the trains,
there are some “tourist quota tickets”: those seats are reserved for non Indian
people but you can buy them only in some specific places. Even if the quantity
of these tickets is low, you usually get what you want. (If you use an agency,
you’ll have to pay very high commission fees). But if the tourist quotas are
sold out, then you have to follow the “normal way” that I explained above!
Well, I
don’t know if you understood what I try to explain, but at least you understand
that the train system in India is kind of very complex !
So, we
wanted to go from Jaipur (in Rajasthan) to Agra. It takes about 5 hours so we
just bought a general class ticket (for one euro). At the train station, many
many people were waiting on the platform. When the train came, some people
jumped on the rails to enter the train from the other side. People still on the
platform jumped onto the train, caught the doors and windows before the train
stops. Everybody was shooting, screaming, trying to push, pull… to enter or get
out of the train.
We looked
at this from far away… With our big bags, impossible for us to enter in the
general class! So we jumped between to other coaches (from second class) and we
try to find a place. But every single seat was at least occupied by 3 people so
we gave up and we stayed between the toilets ofr 6 hours!!!! What an
experience… Thank you “Incredible India”!
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We finally
arrived (tired) in Agra! After a good sleep, we visited the Taj Mahal!!! What a
wonderful monument! And what a symbol!!! For those who don’t know it, it is one
of the most beautiful love proof ever. In the years 1620’, the sultan of Agra
called Shah Jahan, fall in love with a lady who became his wife. In the Agra
Fort he built her a white marble palace (while the rest of the fort is in red
stone) decorated with gems. The sultan was the happiest man on Earth (or so)
and the life in the Fort was pleasant. But when his wife died in 1631 while
giving birth to their 14th child; the sultan’s pain was huge. So
huge that he decided to build a monument to celebrate his wife’s immortality.
He called the best architect of that time and killed his wife, so that he could
also feel the pain and give all his energy in the construction. The architect
used white marble to represent the pure and intact love the sultan had for his
wife. In the middle of the building, the body of the queen lies. The tomb is
encircled by 4 minarets which are not perfectly perpendicular but built
inclined so that in case of a earth quick they will not damage the tomb. It is
a sumptuous representation of the love of the sultan for his wife.
After that,
the sultan wanted to build a copy of the Taj made with black marble for his own
tomb. But one of his son, upset that his
father was spending all his money « for stupid things » arrested him
and the sultan was imprisoned during 8 years in the fort where he died. His
body was put near his wife in the Taj Mahal.
We really
liked this visit…. Even if Pomme Pidou couldn’t enter inside!!! Fortunately the
view from the backside of the Taj is free and we could have good shoots with
her!!
After this
perfect day, we went to Delhi. We were expecting a lot of people, especially a
lot of touts out of the train station but it was empty! In fact, we arrived the
day of Dewali and everybody was with their families. Dewali is a Hindu festival
to celebrate the new lunar year. It is celebrated in all India, with candles in
front of the houses, fireworks and crackers… and about the crackers, a lot are
handmade and are used by very young children!!! While walking in the streets we
were really afraid by all of these “bombs” very loud and dangerous. Dewali is
known as one of the most celebrated festival in India but here in Delhi we
didn’t really enjoy this event….
We spent
the two following days discovering the Old and the New Delhi. As every big
city, we feel oppressed after a while. There are some nice monuments and places
to see but we would not consider Delhi as a Must!
After, we
moved to Varanasi : the city on the Ganges !